This is the most popular time of the year to install turfgrass. You can instantly repair any damaged areas in existing lawns with one of our popular varieties. If you have a new yard, don’t fight the wind, rain, dust and mud. Prepare your soil and install a new lawn to enjoy for the upcoming seasons.
Fertilize cool season turfgrass varieties with a balanced fertilizer in March.
Fertilize warm season grass with a balanced fertilizer when there is 50% green-up in the turfgrass leaf blades (usually in April). Fertilizer applications made before 50% green-up can feed and encourage weed competition.
Pre-emergent application for Broadleaf weeds and Grassy weeds should be done in early spring. This can be in addition to or along with your Fertilizer application. It is important to record the date of the Pre-emergent application since 1-2 more applications may be applied at 45-90 day intervals.
When installing new turfgrass during the summer months be sure to cool the grade before installation. Lightly water prepared grade so that it is cool to the touch but not muddy. Install as soon as possible after delivery or pick-up. Do not order turf until grade is prepared.
Check your sprinkler system for proper coverage. Summer temperatures increase your turfgrass water needs so adjust automatic watering schedules. Manually probe your soil to make sure you have moisture at a 6 to 8 inch depth.
As summer temperatures increase, raise the mowing height of your turfgrass to the highest recommended range for your turfgrass variety. Be sure to keep mower blade sharpa dull blade will injure the turfgrass and encourage disease while distracting from your lawns neat appearance.
Pre-emerge any newly installed turf after installation and the first thorough watering is completed. Never pre-emerge prepared soil before turfgrass installation. Grassy Weeds will make an effort to grow at this time of year and can be a visible problem in landscape areas.
Depending on your area, and when you made your first Pre-emergent application a summer follow up application of a Pre-emergent may be necessary for an established turfgrass lawn. This is the favorite time of year for grassy weeds. If you have not Pre-emerged at an earlier date you may be susceptible to the grassy weed. If grassy weeds exist in your lawn now, its too late to Pre-emerge and you must use a Post-emergent chemical to eliminate the grassy weed.
Fertilize warm season turfgrass varieties of Hybrid Bermuda grass at 30-day intervals in accordance to your planned Fertilizer schedule.
DO NOT fertilize cool season turfgrass varieties, Triple Crown Bluegrass and Frontier Fescue, with nitrogen based fertilizer. You can apply an iron product to help the color of your turfgrass or improve leaf lustre. Liquid chelated iron products provide a quick response but will not last long and a granular iron product will not produce quick results but will continue to help your turfgrass throughout the summer.
As temperatures begin to cool, your turfgrass will not require as much moisture as it did in the summer, adjust watering schedules on sprinkler systems according to your turfgrass variety.
Fertilizer applications to cool season varieties, Bluegrass and Fescue need to be made. The first one in early fall (September) and the second one in late fall (end of October).
Fertilizer applications to warm season varieties, Bermuda grass and Buffalograss are not necessary and could weaken root systems by encouraging late seasonal growth.
Compost and Gypsum would be beneficial if applied to your turfgrass, both warm and cool season varieties. Compost can be broadcast spread and watered in at a rate of 100 lbs/1000 square feet. Gypsum can also be broadcast spread and watered in at a rate of 50 lbs/1000 square feet.
Pre-emergent applications can be made in October on all turfgrass varieties to inhibit winter and early spring Broadleaf weed development.
The importance of watering during the winter months should not be forgotten, especially if the weather is dry. Keep in mind that the soil needs adequate moisture to maintain the root zone and prevent winterkill. Most turfgrass areas will be all or partly dormant and even though you may not see any visible leaf growth, the roots are active and need moisture. It is especially important to have adequate moisture in the root zone before a hard or extended freeze.
Thatch is a build-up of dead plant material in the area between the soil surface and the leaf blade area. If you have thatch that is more than ½" thick, it should be removed. Remove only after the lawn has gone dormant, preferably in late winter before the lawn begins to actively grow.
Aeration opens up compacted soils and allows for easier movement of roots, nutrients, water and air. If you have compacted soils or your soil is clay or clay based, you may want to aerify your lawn. Core aeration, which removes plugs or cores of turf from your lawn is most effective. Late winter is the recommended time for this treatment or when the lawn is not actively growing. An application of gypsum after this treatment would be very beneficial to your lawn as well.
Buffalograss and Bermuda grass lawns that are completely dormant (no visible green leaf blades) can be spot treated with an application of Round Up to eliminate any winter weeds. This must be done on a warm and preferably still day. Follow manufacturers recommended rates and be sure your Buffalograss or Bermuda grass is completely dormant.